Other voices, Other rooms®
MSGM WOMEN’S FALL/WINTER 2024
Citing the aristocratic and rebellious charm of Truman Capote's swans, Massimo Giorgetti embraces the idea of a free femininity, rebellious to the ordinary.
If Capote told of female pioneers, "tragic heroines" in a gilded cage of codes and conventions, MSGM gives life to a new generation of women who - albeit at different times and in different ways - never cease to upset categories and infuse creativity where there is stasis.
Almost a cinematic tale, the collection seems to follow a screenplay, of which Capote is muse and ghost writer. The author's taste for sophisticated atmospheres, singular people, places of pleasure and culture is matched by MSGM's obsession with urban haunts - bars and restaurants - where energies meet and thecity comes alive.
Through the lens of MSGM, the splendour of the Côte Basque reverberates in a contemporary story: the collection - like Capote's society - is glittering on the outside and dark in the soul.
The past is reinterpreted and distorted, the bourgeois heritage of swans ripped apart by zips, studded with crystals. It is a sophisticated, cleaner and tougher evolution for MSGM: the muted palette consisting ofconcrete grey and anthracite, cream and dust pink, with touches of lipstick red and cerulean blue in a deepblack world.
Cocktail accents meet punk details, the emphasis is on volumes and textures - the sheen of embroidery and glossy materials, and fitted pieces mingling with oversized garments, almost borrowed from the parents' wardrobe just to be twisted into new looks.The plates, glasses and crystal chandeliers - simulacra of upper class living rooms - become vivid brushstrokes on the garments, the work of Belgian artist Jan De Vliegher.
Guests at the show immerse themselves in a surreal setting, recreating the opulent but conformist ambience of a New York reception - amid champagne and canapés.
As in a Dogville-like setting, the space is divided into imaginary rooms, bordered by curtains. A muffled echoing of sounds moves between one room and another, while electronic rhythms evolve in an irrepressible acceleration, with Klaus Nomi's alien voice marking time. It is a lyric/oneiric soundscape broken by the clatter of porcelain plates, crystal glasses and glittering chandeliers crashing in a destructive divertissement.